The Craziness of LA CALLE!!

I have to tell you, if I did not live in the specific area of the Festival De La Calle in Viejo San Juan for the last three years, I would have a very different opinion of the festival. But I do, and I have, and although it is a huge pain in the ass for us locals, it has some amazing charms as well.

Every town in Puerto Rico has a patron saint, to which that town holds a festival once a year. San Juan holds a festival to their San Juan El Bautista (St. John the Baptist), and people celebrate with a public baptism of drunk people throwing themselves into the ocean backwards at midnight. Old San Juan celebrates our favorite martyr, St. Sebastian, by popping open a can of Medalla. Since Calle San Sebastian is our street of bars, we celebrate our saint by allowing thousands to drink in the streets. With this, the Feast of San Sebastian is also called the Fiesta De La Calle, or the"Party of the Street" .

Part of this festival's history is the Parade Cabezudos, which is a great parade, encompassing everyone on the street with very catchy music. I would almost call it addictive. Today I was in my home when I heard the parade go by, and I couldn't help but grab my camera & head out to join the celebration. It is almost impossible not to! With the parade comes the very famous Comparsa Pleneros Del Pueblo, or people wearing masks of huge heads of common people. These, along with the vejigantes of Ponce, are the star attractions of the parade, and the festival. Although no one could answer to what the history of these masks are, including the children in the masks and their parents, I will just call it one of our dearly held traditions, and hopefully edit this part out when I can call the Cultural Department once the festival is over and they open again.
Other than the big headed people, the festival of St. Sebastian is also world-renowned for the artistic fair that is held in the area of the Totem. Famous musicians and artists come together to preform and exhibit their talents and join the huge arts and crafts fair. Last year the main musical attraction was Ricky Martin, and featured the art of Ada Rosa Rivera, Elida Rodríguez, Javier Alzérreca Frambes, Oslvado de Jesus Cruz, Roberto Matos, and Sixto Cotto. This year's line up is much more local, involving the Orchestra of the North to South Julito Alvarado, and the group Así Somos.

Enjoy, and maybe I will catch you out on the street!

HOLY MIXQUIC!!

Although it is not know as the best place to celebrate the holiday, I decided to spend the Mexican tradition of Day of the Dead in Mixquic, Mexico, just outside of Mexico City. It seems Mixquic is put on the map because they house the cemetery and prison for the D.F. area. What perfect surroundings to be celebrating in!

Unfortunately, I did not learn about the bus that would take me straight to the town, until after I headed out. It would have been very stress-free to not have driven to the small town, but I would not have been able to stay the night to watch the candlelight service, since the bus left at 5:00 PM. So, I jumped in the rental car with a crappy map (all in Spanish) and was off.

Once I got into town and parked, it was apparent that all the streets were blocked off and the whole town was a big party. I was so happy to be in this atmosphere- with very little tourists and many sites to see. I tried to imagine the town without the massive celebrating, but it was very difficult to. Maybe they hated it as much as we hate the Festival de la Calle!

After roaming around just to get photos of the amazing Day of the Day murals in the streets, I finally found where the street fair began. At this time, I knew I was headed in the right direction of the cemetery, and that the party was just beginning.

The road leading to the town square was filled with tables selling everything that can be expected at the festival. Many vendors had mountains of sugar skulls, of every shape and size, and made out of many types of food. Some were traditional, while others were made of dark chocolate with M&M's and wore glasses and mustaches. How wonderful to see this famous tradition in the original setting!


Mixquic, and the surrounding areas, had recently finished harvesting their crops and there were many fresh fruits and vegetables for sale (all with lime and chili powder!). If that wasn't enough, there was also potato chips wrapped around a stick, cotton candy, popcorn, and different types of corn on the cob. After all that time snacking, I decided to spend some time in the little cultural centers before going any further.

One of the community centers focused on the crafts, writings, miniatures and sculptures of the local children. It was amazing to see how death was incorporated into their daily lives. Upon entering, there was the largest shrine I had ever seen. Filled with steps of food, fruits, and flowers, It looked about two stories high. Surrounding the shrine were all different types of skeletons, and a mosaic of a skeleton made out of beans-all made by the children. Further in there were masks, murals, flags and projects lining the walls, including the class project in which the children were asked "Who do you want death to come for?" and the answers ranged from bullies, "cool kids" that got the girls, and, most of all, teachers.

Finally, it was time for us to enter the cemetery. I was lucky enough to be there when the family and loved ones were finishing decorating the grave sites, and just before the sun went down. The candlelight church service started soon afterwards. It was easy to forget what the day meant when I watched the people running around with cans of water and flower petals, working hard to decorate and get things ready in time. Later, once the service started and the families huddled together at the graveside to light the candles and incense, the true meaning of the holiday shone through. Families saw me trying to hold back my tears, and invited me to sit with them, so they could share with me the funny stories and good memories of their deceased.

After watching this extremely emotional ceremony, I decided it was time to get back to el D.F. On the way out of Mixquic, in front of the prison to be exact, I was stopped by four or five men in costume carrying baseball bats and huge tree branches. They blocked the road and asked for money. On the way in I had seen a few people creating their own "toll booths" on the side of the road, and people actually stopped to give them a few pesos. I believe this is what funds the town all year, and it couldn't hurt to give a bit more to the locals. When I told them, angrily, that I only had one 10 peso coin left, then gave it to them, they said, in English, "Sorry! Thank you!" and I knew I was never in any harm. Look up Mixquic on these popular travel advice sites, and you will hear horrible warnings and advice not to go. It breaks my heart to see Americans bashing the town by saying their trip was "a disappointment" and "not worth it" , but I think this is best to keep shitty Americans out of amazing local color.