Mexico City A.K.A. El D.F.

I have to admit, I wasn't sure I would want to return home after our week in El D.F. The city is packed with history, museums, culture and amazing sites. From beautiful modern buildings to ancient Aztec pyramids, parks and street fairs to plazas and sporting events, el D. F. is the place to be!

Planning this trip for months, I had my weird little list in tow. With only six days in Mexico, and three of them being the Dia De Los Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebration outside of the city, I had to condense my expectations. If the temperature was over 40° Fahrenheit, we could have done everything. Coming from Puerto Rico, I brought all the winter wardrobe I own, which consisted of a long-sleeved T-shirt and a zip-up hoodie. Once the sun started going down, you would think there were vampires the way we ran back to the hotel!

Good friends of ours at Evolution Tattoo were kind enough to bring us around with their friend visiting from Mexican Family Tattoo in Sardinia, Italy. We went with them to a live lucha libre! It was amazing to see the drama unfold live before our eyes in the ring! We were not allowed to take our cameras inside, but we were able to snap some photos of the lucha arena and the street fair outside while we were eating at a small taco stand.


Inside we had a wonderful experience as we watched the most fake wrestling imaginable. I can now honestly say their moves were real and they used a lot of acrobatics, and the wrestlers were very impressive! El Blue Panther (not Pantera Azul for some reason), was celebrating over thirty years in the business, and made a touching speech to his fans. The whole time vendors were walking around with food items of all sorts... pork in a cup, ramen noodles, 6-inch personal pizzas, coffee and doughnuts, popcorn, ice cream, the works. I am pretty sure we could have stayed there for a week alone!

During the "fights" where wrestlers would de-mask each other, then try to cut the other's hair, the best characters to watch were definitely in the audience. The crowd was mostly under 10, or over 40. With the screaming and obscene hand gestures, it looked like the 40+ men were using their children/grandchildren as an excuse to see the matches themselves. The men stole the show running back and forth screaming and throwing things, wearing their favorite wrestler's emblem on their shirts. Meanwhile, the children would be ringside trying to sneak an autograph on the inside of their favorite mask. After watching the men, much more than the players, we didn't feel as old as we thought we might going to these types of events, and we understood crystal clear why they were serving coffee and doughnuts!

The morning after the lucha, we ran around town trying to see as much as possible. We started off at Belles Artes in the Alameda Park section of the city. This gorgeous and interesting building is used mostly for classical music concerts and dance exhibitions. As far as fine art, this museum is best known for the original murals of Diego Rivera they house. One of the murals they display is a replica Rivera created that is a smaller version of his controversial piece for Rockefeller Center, involving the likeness of Lenin. These murals are enormous and beautiful, and are joined by others from Tamayo, Siqueiros, and Orozco. Once we found our way around the murals, I located the bookstore, and spent many an hour there.

After the shopping spree, I decided to stop by the post office and send everything home. The post office building was my favorite by far, and I never thought I would be interested in buildings made of gold. The architecture and details are breathtaking, and the glass and gold elevator took us up to the top floor, where the Mexico Maritime Museum was! No more wondering why the elevator man was dressed like a Naval Officer in the middle of a post office! This museum was very interesting and the staff was very well informed about the history of wars and battles involving the Mexican Navy. I found the models of the ancient ships the most fascinating.

After breaking for a quick all-vegan lunch, we hit the street fairs like a sledgehammer! We even found a little alleyway that was lined with tables of books as far as the eye can see. It was like Christmas for this nerd. I realized earlier down the path that there were no books in english, so it was mostly a browsing trip- but I did pick up some reads for friends in Puerto Rico. In Alameda Park, many vendors were selling toys, gifts, scarfs (brilliant idea), and lots of food. After wandering around for a while, at 5 PM I was faced with a very hard decision.

As it turns out, around the time of Dia De Los Muertos, and Halloween (Jalogüin), interesting sites pop up that we would never have found out about. I stood in the crossroads. To my right was the National Museum of Art's exhibition of death, to my left the Museum of Torture and Antique Torture Devices. Wow. I found out that the art museum had a policy that after 5:25 PM, entrance is free (until closing at 6PM), so I knew where to go first.

I was impressed with the display at the Torture Museum, and amazed to see the actual replica of the devices. The exhibition was set up in a way that there was a detailed (and very well done) written piece about the device, then a photo or drawing about how it was used, and then POW! As I turned the corner, the device would actually be there. This I was not ready for! Seeing these horrible instruments made the written stories and cute little drawings a reality, instead of a twisted storybook on the wall. I was also horrified to see how many of the instruments were made specifically to torture women. I guess between the Spanish Inquisition and the Salem Witch Hunts, they needed as much help as possible.

Afterwards, we shot over to the exhibition of death, which I was not sure I could stomach. The arrangement of art was fantastic, and there was art from many different time periods. Mostly political drawings from the early 1900's, the illustrations were beautiful and very powerful. I was in awe of the smaller room that displayed all the oil paintings of dead children (paintings of the children in the coffins). That was powerful enough to make me sit for a while.

By the time we got to the Zócalo area of the city, it was night, and we were only able to see a small part of the plaza. This was fine with me, since I did not want to be in the area where they have bullfighting every weekend anyway. The only site on my list was to see the largest Catholic cathedral in all of Latin America. The huge plaza is beautiful, and I am glad we saw it! The cathedral was all but closed, and the smaller area that was open was having a public mass. We tried to take as many photos (museum style) as possible, but at night with no flash, that was not happening. The only one that came out was of the Jesus on the cross, which was probably the most interesting site there! I tried to ask the church security why they would have an all black (not African, pure BLACK) Jesus on a black cross. No one knew why.

Once we exited the church, the violently cold air hit us likes bricks flying in the night, and we realized it was time to hit the hotel.

How to add fair trade to your ecovacation

**THIS WAS TAKEN FROM OUR GOOD FRIENDS AT ECOTROTTERS! CHECK OUT THEIR SITE FOR MORE HELPFUL INFORMATION!

http://www.ecotrotters.com/eco-articles-How-to-add-fair-trade-to-your-ecovacation/614269754f794558532f633d-article.html

When thinking of eco vacations, unspoiled natural environments and green hotels are what probably first comes to mind. However, eco holidays also entail a certain respect and concern for the local communities we are visiting. By directly supporting local communities as much as possible during our travels, we are contributing to the preservation and improvement of the area, and thus helping to create benefits for the locals as well as future travelers. But how can we support local communities during our travels? One simple, transparent way is by adding fair trade to our eco vacation.


Fair trade is an international certification program that aims to alleviate world poverty by empowering small producers and eliminating the middleman, supporting environmental sustainability in the process. Farmers and laborers in developing countries are more often than not paid extremely low wages that cannot cover their daily expenses. Through fair trade practices, however, wages paid must allow workers to at least cover the cost of sustainable production. By earning appropriate wages, producers may spend more, which helps the community as a whole. Workers also receive an added premium to promote the community’s economic growth. Working conditions are also improved through specific health and safety requirements that must be met.


Although fair trade leads to fair wages and better working conditions, it provides an added bonus- environmental protection and sustainability. Most fair trade products are organic, and those which are not usually follow specific production practices that are environmentally sustainable. For example, although the farm itself may not be certified as organic, chances are that the farmer will still be practicing organic farming techniques such as minimizing pesticides and herbicides. This leads to more natural crops and a reduction of the negative environmental impact resulting from human activity. And as consumers, we enjoy healthier, more delicious products.

Considering the obvious benefits of fair trade, then, we should try to participate in the process during our vacation. We can do this by thinking about where our money goes before buying anything. We must ask ourselves, was this piece of jewelry/craft/souvenir made by local artisans? Was this fruit/vegetable grown by local farmers? Buying from local artisans and producers, eating at local restaurants that buy from local producers, and staying at hotels that both employ locals and buy from locals are some simple ways of contributing to the fair trade ideal. Both at home and away, we can maintain the principles of fair trade by taking a look at what we buy. The easiest way to buy fair trade items is to look for the Fair Trade certified label. And we must remember- not only by participating in environmental projects or reducing our energy consumption are we helping the world become a better place.

Tips For Responsible Travel

**THIS IS TAKEN FROM OUR GOOD FRIENDS AT ECOTROTTERS. VISIT THEIR WEBSITE FOR MORE AWESOME INFORMATION!!


http://www.ecotrotters.com/eco-articles-Tips-for-responsible-travel/5147646368542f316364383d-article.html


What is the best way to travel in a responsible manner? First, it is important to have a clear picture of what responsible travel actually means. In general terms, what sets responsible travel apart from conventional travel is its emphasis on conservation, education, and participation in the activities of local communities. Now that we know this, we can start thinking about ways in which we can incorporate these concepts when planning our ideal vacation.

• When choosing your travel destination, try to find environmentally friendly means of getting there. Planes emit the most carbon dioxide per traveler, so try reaching your vacation spot by train or bus, to minimize the emission of greenhouse gases. It may take you a bit longer to get there, but you will be reducing your carbon footprint considerably.

• Once you reach your destination, try to avoid taxis or renting cars, and travel on foot or using public transport to get from place to place.

• Try to stay at green hotels- hotels that are committed to minimizing their impact on the environment and emphasize sustainability. Hotels with energy reduction practices, waste management, and other environmentally sound policies are always good options. Take a look at the hotels on this website for some ideas.

• If you are thinking of bringing back souvenirs, try buying local merchandise. Souvenirs manufactured ion the other side of the globe not only imply more fuel costs and unnecessary greenhouse gas emissions, but they do nothing to contribute to local the communities. Souvenirs made locally generate direct benefits for the communities you visit.

• Take your digital camera. Digital photos don’t carry developing costs and there is not need for film.

• Don’t buy packaged snacks which create unnecessary waste. Eat organic foods, which are grown implementing techniques that reduce pollution and conserve water and soil. Not only are they grown employing environmentally friendly practices, but they taste better.

These are just a few easy tips we can consider when planning our vacation. After all, our trips don’t just carry a monetary price; they carry an environmental price as well.

SHOPPING VSJ STYLE!!

our main shopping district is on the streets of calle fortaleza and san francisco. here you can find just about anything! many stores offer nothing but local art, crafts, and souvenirs. the rest offer clothing, accessories, jewelry, electronics, just about anything you could want!

on the east side of the town (towards fort el morro) is a smaller shopping street called calle cristo. on christ street you can find the first three churches of old san juan, and just about every clothing designer there is! from tommy hilfiger to ralph lauren, guess, coach and puma, we have them all (or they have been through there at one time!). towards the top of the hill is custo barcelona, pachouli, spicy caribbee, and our favorite little store mi pequeño san juan.

MI PEQUENO SAN JUAN

sells hand-painted replicas of the san juan buildings. they also carry hand-made dolls and other gifts that make great keepsakes.

107 calle cristo
787-977-1636
ducart@yahoo.com
http://www.mipequenosanjuan.com/


CUSTO BARCELONA

hot street fashion clothing. The only thing better than the clothing and best dressed employees is the way they blast blondie through the streets. i’ll be there any day!

152 calle cristo
(787) 722-1212

PACHOULLI

the perfect store for a girl to be a girl. from local perfumes to beautiful sundresses and jewelry, I find a new treasure every time I walk in! definitely worth checking out.

152 calle cristo
(787) 725-3447

SPICY CARIBEE

life does not get better than this! a full store of vibrant smells, bright colors, and beautiful hand-made items. This sore carries many culinary surprises, with many salsas and jams, food items and kitchen accessories. a must see if you have a chef or food lover on your list.

154 calle cristo
(787) 725-4690


TOUCANTIK

beautiful furniture (big and small), along with gorgeous crafts made of cloth and wood. beautiful handbags and smaller gifts.

204 calle o’donnell
205 calle cruz
(787) 725-4231

TURQUESA

this is the house of gems, rocks, minerals and art. Not only is it an amazing collection of beautiful polished rocks and stones, gemstones from topaz to quartz, and great gifts, but there is also a workshop where they make jewelry and sell all the necessities. Watch a necklace being made, or sit and join the fun!

251 calle de san francisco
(787) 721-7972

How to Eco-Travel Like A Pro!!

Some tips from personal experience.. Following these simple steps can shrink your wandering footprint! Enjoy!

Sailing cruises versus oil guzzlers on water.

I’ve gotta admit, I am the type of girl who would rather float than fly. Especially going from island to island, I feel very disconnected hopping to and from a plane, and I can’t STAND airports. Plus, what better way to pretend you’re a pirate on the open seas? And now I am hearing this is a much better and more environmentally kosher way to travel. Who knew playing Anne Bonney could be helping the earth? Right on!

But my experience, and my advice, is to take a sailboat & skip the big old motorboats. These make the imaginary parrot fly right off my shoulder. Not only does the oily rainbow that trails us bring a tear to my eye, but I am always obsessing that we will hit an animal or wondering how many fish we are burning or grinding up in that propeller thing.

Here in Puerto Rico we have first-hand proof of what motorboats can do. After a desperate drop in algae, now two of our three of our bioluminescent bays are endangered or closed due to pollution.

Maps & Guidebooks

I have the same feeling about both of these, and I have two words.. internet & GPS. Now, I am not a particular fan of either of these… or anything with a tracking device for that matter. Freaks me out, always has. But guidebooks are outdated by the time they go to press, and maps are no better.

There are many websites dedicated to helping you travel. I would suggest blogs, since these are usually not bombarded with commercials. These are often run by dedicated people who want to share information, not to direct you to who they are paid by.

I would also suggest contacting your hotel/hostel/campground. Yes, they are probably getting paid a commission for their efforts, but they will only do business with tour groups and private they trust will show up, and who will not put you in harm’s way. Also, if it is a hotel you are going through, they might offer responsibility or insurance, should you fall and break something. Worth considering.

If a guidebook is something you think you need to find fun things to do, there are many different choices (fun for teens, kids, young adults, art fans, cultural facts, etc.). Before running out and buying every one you see hot off the press, consider borrowing one from a friend or a local library. I think websites like www.paperbackswap.com is perfect for books like this.

Eco-Tours

While I am on the note of what to do on vacation, see if the place you are going has eco-tours available. These are activities that are eco-friendly and a lot of fun! Ranging from hiking, walking tours, kayaking and horseback riding, these are good ways to boost local economy while not leaving a big fat footprint in someone else’s back yard. Please remember, you are not visiting there to pollute the local land or to endanger their animals or environment. Sometime tourists get a bit carried away with motorboats, gas guzzling bus tours, and jet skis.

Wherever the travel bug takes you, be respectful to the local land. If you are going somewhere tropical or nautical, have respect for the local oceans, wildlife, beach conditions, and coral reefs. It is never a good idea to wear chemicals into a live ocean (with lots of fish and live creatures and plants) like sunscreen and insect repellant. Care2.com has alerted that there is an ingredient in sunscreen that is killing our coral reefs at an alarming rate. Try healthier non-chemical options instead, or wear a long sleeve shirt in the ocean. And please, DO NOT LITTER.

Being A Good Tourist

I promise, the phrase “Ugly American” is real. I see it daily and am pretty ashamed. I live on a beautiful island with ancient surroundings and a very strong culture. The Puerto Rican people are a wonderful, open, and very friendly group, and I know it breaks peoples’ hearts when they see the line out the door at the local Burger King, or the woman from Manhattan trying to barter the price of her latte at one of our many Starbucks. I seem to duck my head and walk faster when I see a group of girls screaming on their cell phones and stopping traffic running into the street to get into the Payless shoe store. This could very well be how people act in the States, and I just never noticed it, but I don’t think so.

Lodging

Before you travel, know your options. Would you like to rough it on your own, or is your family too used to inside living to appreciate it? There are many campgrounds and hostels that are cheap and safe, letting you spend your money on better things… like seeing more places!

If it is a hotel you are interested in, check out www.greenlodging.com to find a good environmentally responsible establishment that will let you sleep well about where you sleep!

HELPFUL HINTS TO VIEJO SAN JUAN, PR

There is much to say about one of the most beautiful and historical cities in this hemisphere. Many countries have come and gone trying to claim this island as their own. There are statues and plaques dedicated to the triumphs over the British and the Dutch around the famous Fort El Morro, and many rumors and legends about the other countries bound for the glory of Christopher Columbus’ own paradise.

Although there are many cities of great historical value and beauty in Puerto Rico, Old San Juan is ranked as one of the top. The antiqued cobblestone streets, the Spanish-style buildings, and the local flavor, make this a trip of a lifetime.

TIPS FOR TRAVEL

-Numero uno, and que importante – the cops of Puerto Rico (for the most part, definitely in the cities) DRIVE WITH THEIR LIGHTS FLASHING. If you see the blue cherries behind you, do not slam on the brakes, pull over to the side of the road, or stop walking to throw yourself down onto the sidewalk.
This is for YOUR BENEFIT. You know how the police in the states say they are there to “protect and serve”? here they actually MEAN THAT. The cherries are a-blazin’ purposely so you can immediately find a police officer if you feel danger. It is not meant to freak you out, it is to make you feel safer. And once you are used to it … it does.


-Puerto Ricans point using their lips. There are many stories of why this happens, but no matter. When a native is in a position where they want to help you and do not speak your language, they tend to use many different facial and bodily gestures to help bridge the communication gap. If someone is pursing their lips at you repeatedly, they are probably NOT TRYING TO SEND YOU KISSES OR PICK A FIGHT. They are probably trying to get you to look at something, or get your attention.

-I love this town, and have lived here for four years now, and I can tell you from experience, that people can get downright loud. No joke. You will hear people yell, kinda a LOT. But since I have been here, never have I seen loud yelling turn into a fight or an altercation. The Puerto Rican people are genuinely good-hearted, and do not pick fights out in the open very often. If you hear someone yelling, it is probably someone calling up to the second floor of their building, calling across the street to their friends, or two people having a passionate discussion.

- Local flavor. Yep, we got it- every city does. The homeless, the “crazies” in the streets or sleeping on benches. Not a lot, but a few. This is a very small town, and everyone knows each other, even the junkies. It is up to you if you want to give them money, but it is not OK to hurt these people, and I have never seen any one of them hurt anyone else.

-Fashing pictures. The locals are not really up to be photographed. Really. I know this from experience. There is nothing worse than waking up in the morning, running outside to let the dog pee, or to put the clothes in the dryer next door, just to look up and see a stranger with a video camera in your face. Not cool. In fact, the only fight we ever did see here involved a man smashing a tourist’s camera, and then punching him in the face. Very extreme behavior, but… you get the drift.



HELPFUL INFO

- The area code for the metropolitan area of San Juan is 787. The more remote parts of Puerto Rico are 939, as well as some cell phones.

- During half the year, Puerto Rico is on Eastern Standard Time. What does this mean? It means that we don’t go for that time change stuff. When the East Coast “springs ahead” they join us on our time for 6 months. And when they “fall back”, they do just that (leaving us an hour ahead).

- The currency is the american dollar, and there is no exchange rate difference. The tip rate is 15%, and we do not barter as much as other islands. No, we do not expect bartering, or "like it". Especially at a Starbucks or a Burger King. It's downright embarrassing. You wouldn't haggle over the price of your latte at home, please do not do it here.

- Although it may not look like it sometimes, we DO drive on the same side of the road as in the States. All of our signs are in Spanish, but the format is the same (doesn't really matter what a huge red octagon on a pole SAYS, right?). Our gas is in litres, which is 1/4 a gallon. when it says gas is 50 cents, they do not mean per gallon. Maybe one day… we can all dream.

- Here in PR, the USPS is King. We have a post office located near the pool hall, and mailboxes scattered all over the city. We even had some of the R2D2 ones! There are Fed Ex and UPS stores here as well.

- For information dial 411, emergencies 911.


HELPFUL INFO FOR VEGANS

-Really, stay away from the beans here in PR. 98% of the time, the beans are cooked with pork or lard. There are many ways to make beans with squash, or other thickening agents, but it is not likely you will find a place who does. In the following posts, I will star (*) the places that i know have vegan options, or do not use any meat in their beans.

-Ask your restaurant for a vegetarian special, or what vegetarian dishes they have available. You would be surprised. We are finding more and more changes to the local menus, and are proud to say we are part of the cause. In most places they are starting to understand "vegetarian beans" does NOT mean "pick the pork out with your fingers before serving". We're learning. Slowly.

-Was this fried in vegetable oil? Why, yes! So was the fish, the chicken and the cheese sticks! Be warned.

- A few places have open-glass holding spaces for fresh fish and eel. It is not pretty.

-A lot of our local crafts are made with leather. Before purchasing, look over the product carefully.

-Yes, we have an alarmingly high street cat population. We are working on this. These cats, for the most part, are completely being taken care of. I have never seen one that is sick, other than old age, and they are given their shots, neutered, and fed regularly. For more info, go to SAVE A GATO

RINCON, PUERTO RICO!

ahh.. my kingdom for a little shack on the beach in beautiful Rincon, Puerto Rico. This little town is actually a world-famous surfing spot! I know it as the best place to catch a glimpse of the humpback whales when they blow their way through town on their way down south, but the locals know there is much more to this lovely part of the island than that! For lots of excitement, whether it be hitting the waves, bars, or just snorkeling around, Rincon has it.

As per usual we headed straight to my favorite little veggie joint, Natural High, on rt. 115. This cute little cafe has some of the most amazing vegetarian dishes in Puerto Rico, and has even won an award from Lonely Planet to prove it! After ordering my very favorite cold sesame noodles and japanese salad, I decided I wasn't going to just hit the breathtaking beach as usual. I mean, I couldn't RESIST sticking my foot in for a while, but I figured there must be more than fun in the sun that makes up Rincon. So, after munching down the most satisfying of meals, we were off to find adventure. or at least more organic food. Whichever.

http://www.naturalhighcafe.com
http://www.naturalhighcafe.com/menu.pdf

This time around, although we did enjoy the beach sports and beautiful scenery, we stopped on the way at the DR. ANN WIGMORE INSTITUTE!! For those who have never heard, this amazing Dra. was known for her methods of using wheatgrass and living foods to detoxify the human body. Being the author of many books, she started an institute in PR that involves a very strict diet of raw foods, and her famous "energy soup". The institute also offers classes on yoga, skin care and self-esteem.

This was a whole lot of fun for me because I was given a tour of their organic vegetable gardens and spoke for a long time with the woman who oversees their on-site gardens. Almost all of the veggies and fruits used for the programs are produced in their on or off site gardens.

Yhere are just some veggies you don't see in island life, and they grow 'em all! From kale to swiss chard, their green leafies are amazing. Also their roots, fruits, herbs and sprouts blew my mind! It was wonderful to talk to their staff and compare notes. Not only is this an amazing detox center, but if you have any questions on organic or hydroponic gardening, pesticide control, or composting in the Caribbean, these are the experts!

For more information on the ann wigmore institute, please go to http://www.annwigmore.org



After that exciting adventure (it is always great to meet another organic gardener), we hit the beach! Our friends at Tiano Divers rented us some snorkels, and we headed to Steps Beach (Playa Escalaras). This is where Ed had seen a baby Barracuda, and I was on a warpath to see one myself! Well, it was a bit windy, so we didn't get to see everything we wanted to, but it was a great time at a beautiful beach, nonetheless!