The Craziness of LA CALLE!!

I have to tell you, if I did not live in the specific area of the Festival De La Calle in Viejo San Juan for the last three years, I would have a very different opinion of the festival. But I do, and I have, and although it is a huge pain in the ass for us locals, it has some amazing charms as well.

Every town in Puerto Rico has a patron saint, to which that town holds a festival once a year. San Juan holds a festival to their San Juan El Bautista (St. John the Baptist), and people celebrate with a public baptism of drunk people throwing themselves into the ocean backwards at midnight. Old San Juan celebrates our favorite martyr, St. Sebastian, by popping open a can of Medalla. Since Calle San Sebastian is our street of bars, we celebrate our saint by allowing thousands to drink in the streets. With this, the Feast of San Sebastian is also called the Fiesta De La Calle, or the"Party of the Street" .

Part of this festival's history is the Parade Cabezudos, which is a great parade, encompassing everyone on the street with very catchy music. I would almost call it addictive. Today I was in my home when I heard the parade go by, and I couldn't help but grab my camera & head out to join the celebration. It is almost impossible not to! With the parade comes the very famous Comparsa Pleneros Del Pueblo, or people wearing masks of huge heads of common people. These, along with the vejigantes of Ponce, are the star attractions of the parade, and the festival. Although no one could answer to what the history of these masks are, including the children in the masks and their parents, I will just call it one of our dearly held traditions, and hopefully edit this part out when I can call the Cultural Department once the festival is over and they open again.
Other than the big headed people, the festival of St. Sebastian is also world-renowned for the artistic fair that is held in the area of the Totem. Famous musicians and artists come together to preform and exhibit their talents and join the huge arts and crafts fair. Last year the main musical attraction was Ricky Martin, and featured the art of Ada Rosa Rivera, Elida Rodríguez, Javier Alzérreca Frambes, Oslvado de Jesus Cruz, Roberto Matos, and Sixto Cotto. This year's line up is much more local, involving the Orchestra of the North to South Julito Alvarado, and the group Así Somos.

Enjoy, and maybe I will catch you out on the street!

HOLY MIXQUIC!!

Although it is not know as the best place to celebrate the holiday, I decided to spend the Mexican tradition of Day of the Dead in Mixquic, Mexico, just outside of Mexico City. It seems Mixquic is put on the map because they house the cemetery and prison for the D.F. area. What perfect surroundings to be celebrating in!

Unfortunately, I did not learn about the bus that would take me straight to the town, until after I headed out. It would have been very stress-free to not have driven to the small town, but I would not have been able to stay the night to watch the candlelight service, since the bus left at 5:00 PM. So, I jumped in the rental car with a crappy map (all in Spanish) and was off.

Once I got into town and parked, it was apparent that all the streets were blocked off and the whole town was a big party. I was so happy to be in this atmosphere- with very little tourists and many sites to see. I tried to imagine the town without the massive celebrating, but it was very difficult to. Maybe they hated it as much as we hate the Festival de la Calle!

After roaming around just to get photos of the amazing Day of the Day murals in the streets, I finally found where the street fair began. At this time, I knew I was headed in the right direction of the cemetery, and that the party was just beginning.

The road leading to the town square was filled with tables selling everything that can be expected at the festival. Many vendors had mountains of sugar skulls, of every shape and size, and made out of many types of food. Some were traditional, while others were made of dark chocolate with M&M's and wore glasses and mustaches. How wonderful to see this famous tradition in the original setting!


Mixquic, and the surrounding areas, had recently finished harvesting their crops and there were many fresh fruits and vegetables for sale (all with lime and chili powder!). If that wasn't enough, there was also potato chips wrapped around a stick, cotton candy, popcorn, and different types of corn on the cob. After all that time snacking, I decided to spend some time in the little cultural centers before going any further.

One of the community centers focused on the crafts, writings, miniatures and sculptures of the local children. It was amazing to see how death was incorporated into their daily lives. Upon entering, there was the largest shrine I had ever seen. Filled with steps of food, fruits, and flowers, It looked about two stories high. Surrounding the shrine were all different types of skeletons, and a mosaic of a skeleton made out of beans-all made by the children. Further in there were masks, murals, flags and projects lining the walls, including the class project in which the children were asked "Who do you want death to come for?" and the answers ranged from bullies, "cool kids" that got the girls, and, most of all, teachers.

Finally, it was time for us to enter the cemetery. I was lucky enough to be there when the family and loved ones were finishing decorating the grave sites, and just before the sun went down. The candlelight church service started soon afterwards. It was easy to forget what the day meant when I watched the people running around with cans of water and flower petals, working hard to decorate and get things ready in time. Later, once the service started and the families huddled together at the graveside to light the candles and incense, the true meaning of the holiday shone through. Families saw me trying to hold back my tears, and invited me to sit with them, so they could share with me the funny stories and good memories of their deceased.

After watching this extremely emotional ceremony, I decided it was time to get back to el D.F. On the way out of Mixquic, in front of the prison to be exact, I was stopped by four or five men in costume carrying baseball bats and huge tree branches. They blocked the road and asked for money. On the way in I had seen a few people creating their own "toll booths" on the side of the road, and people actually stopped to give them a few pesos. I believe this is what funds the town all year, and it couldn't hurt to give a bit more to the locals. When I told them, angrily, that I only had one 10 peso coin left, then gave it to them, they said, in English, "Sorry! Thank you!" and I knew I was never in any harm. Look up Mixquic on these popular travel advice sites, and you will hear horrible warnings and advice not to go. It breaks my heart to see Americans bashing the town by saying their trip was "a disappointment" and "not worth it" , but I think this is best to keep shitty Americans out of amazing local color.

Mexico City A.K.A. El D.F.

I have to admit, I wasn't sure I would want to return home after our week in El D.F. The city is packed with history, museums, culture and amazing sites. From beautiful modern buildings to ancient Aztec pyramids, parks and street fairs to plazas and sporting events, el D. F. is the place to be!

Planning this trip for months, I had my weird little list in tow. With only six days in Mexico, and three of them being the Dia De Los Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebration outside of the city, I had to condense my expectations. If the temperature was over 40° Fahrenheit, we could have done everything. Coming from Puerto Rico, I brought all the winter wardrobe I own, which consisted of a long-sleeved T-shirt and a zip-up hoodie. Once the sun started going down, you would think there were vampires the way we ran back to the hotel!

Good friends of ours at Evolution Tattoo were kind enough to bring us around with their friend visiting from Mexican Family Tattoo in Sardinia, Italy. We went with them to a live lucha libre! It was amazing to see the drama unfold live before our eyes in the ring! We were not allowed to take our cameras inside, but we were able to snap some photos of the lucha arena and the street fair outside while we were eating at a small taco stand.


Inside we had a wonderful experience as we watched the most fake wrestling imaginable. I can now honestly say their moves were real and they used a lot of acrobatics, and the wrestlers were very impressive! El Blue Panther (not Pantera Azul for some reason), was celebrating over thirty years in the business, and made a touching speech to his fans. The whole time vendors were walking around with food items of all sorts... pork in a cup, ramen noodles, 6-inch personal pizzas, coffee and doughnuts, popcorn, ice cream, the works. I am pretty sure we could have stayed there for a week alone!

During the "fights" where wrestlers would de-mask each other, then try to cut the other's hair, the best characters to watch were definitely in the audience. The crowd was mostly under 10, or over 40. With the screaming and obscene hand gestures, it looked like the 40+ men were using their children/grandchildren as an excuse to see the matches themselves. The men stole the show running back and forth screaming and throwing things, wearing their favorite wrestler's emblem on their shirts. Meanwhile, the children would be ringside trying to sneak an autograph on the inside of their favorite mask. After watching the men, much more than the players, we didn't feel as old as we thought we might going to these types of events, and we understood crystal clear why they were serving coffee and doughnuts!

The morning after the lucha, we ran around town trying to see as much as possible. We started off at Belles Artes in the Alameda Park section of the city. This gorgeous and interesting building is used mostly for classical music concerts and dance exhibitions. As far as fine art, this museum is best known for the original murals of Diego Rivera they house. One of the murals they display is a replica Rivera created that is a smaller version of his controversial piece for Rockefeller Center, involving the likeness of Lenin. These murals are enormous and beautiful, and are joined by others from Tamayo, Siqueiros, and Orozco. Once we found our way around the murals, I located the bookstore, and spent many an hour there.

After the shopping spree, I decided to stop by the post office and send everything home. The post office building was my favorite by far, and I never thought I would be interested in buildings made of gold. The architecture and details are breathtaking, and the glass and gold elevator took us up to the top floor, where the Mexico Maritime Museum was! No more wondering why the elevator man was dressed like a Naval Officer in the middle of a post office! This museum was very interesting and the staff was very well informed about the history of wars and battles involving the Mexican Navy. I found the models of the ancient ships the most fascinating.

After breaking for a quick all-vegan lunch, we hit the street fairs like a sledgehammer! We even found a little alleyway that was lined with tables of books as far as the eye can see. It was like Christmas for this nerd. I realized earlier down the path that there were no books in english, so it was mostly a browsing trip- but I did pick up some reads for friends in Puerto Rico. In Alameda Park, many vendors were selling toys, gifts, scarfs (brilliant idea), and lots of food. After wandering around for a while, at 5 PM I was faced with a very hard decision.

As it turns out, around the time of Dia De Los Muertos, and Halloween (Jalogüin), interesting sites pop up that we would never have found out about. I stood in the crossroads. To my right was the National Museum of Art's exhibition of death, to my left the Museum of Torture and Antique Torture Devices. Wow. I found out that the art museum had a policy that after 5:25 PM, entrance is free (until closing at 6PM), so I knew where to go first.

I was impressed with the display at the Torture Museum, and amazed to see the actual replica of the devices. The exhibition was set up in a way that there was a detailed (and very well done) written piece about the device, then a photo or drawing about how it was used, and then POW! As I turned the corner, the device would actually be there. This I was not ready for! Seeing these horrible instruments made the written stories and cute little drawings a reality, instead of a twisted storybook on the wall. I was also horrified to see how many of the instruments were made specifically to torture women. I guess between the Spanish Inquisition and the Salem Witch Hunts, they needed as much help as possible.

Afterwards, we shot over to the exhibition of death, which I was not sure I could stomach. The arrangement of art was fantastic, and there was art from many different time periods. Mostly political drawings from the early 1900's, the illustrations were beautiful and very powerful. I was in awe of the smaller room that displayed all the oil paintings of dead children (paintings of the children in the coffins). That was powerful enough to make me sit for a while.

By the time we got to the Zócalo area of the city, it was night, and we were only able to see a small part of the plaza. This was fine with me, since I did not want to be in the area where they have bullfighting every weekend anyway. The only site on my list was to see the largest Catholic cathedral in all of Latin America. The huge plaza is beautiful, and I am glad we saw it! The cathedral was all but closed, and the smaller area that was open was having a public mass. We tried to take as many photos (museum style) as possible, but at night with no flash, that was not happening. The only one that came out was of the Jesus on the cross, which was probably the most interesting site there! I tried to ask the church security why they would have an all black (not African, pure BLACK) Jesus on a black cross. No one knew why.

Once we exited the church, the violently cold air hit us likes bricks flying in the night, and we realized it was time to hit the hotel.

How to add fair trade to your ecovacation

**THIS WAS TAKEN FROM OUR GOOD FRIENDS AT ECOTROTTERS! CHECK OUT THEIR SITE FOR MORE HELPFUL INFORMATION!

http://www.ecotrotters.com/eco-articles-How-to-add-fair-trade-to-your-ecovacation/614269754f794558532f633d-article.html

When thinking of eco vacations, unspoiled natural environments and green hotels are what probably first comes to mind. However, eco holidays also entail a certain respect and concern for the local communities we are visiting. By directly supporting local communities as much as possible during our travels, we are contributing to the preservation and improvement of the area, and thus helping to create benefits for the locals as well as future travelers. But how can we support local communities during our travels? One simple, transparent way is by adding fair trade to our eco vacation.


Fair trade is an international certification program that aims to alleviate world poverty by empowering small producers and eliminating the middleman, supporting environmental sustainability in the process. Farmers and laborers in developing countries are more often than not paid extremely low wages that cannot cover their daily expenses. Through fair trade practices, however, wages paid must allow workers to at least cover the cost of sustainable production. By earning appropriate wages, producers may spend more, which helps the community as a whole. Workers also receive an added premium to promote the community’s economic growth. Working conditions are also improved through specific health and safety requirements that must be met.


Although fair trade leads to fair wages and better working conditions, it provides an added bonus- environmental protection and sustainability. Most fair trade products are organic, and those which are not usually follow specific production practices that are environmentally sustainable. For example, although the farm itself may not be certified as organic, chances are that the farmer will still be practicing organic farming techniques such as minimizing pesticides and herbicides. This leads to more natural crops and a reduction of the negative environmental impact resulting from human activity. And as consumers, we enjoy healthier, more delicious products.

Considering the obvious benefits of fair trade, then, we should try to participate in the process during our vacation. We can do this by thinking about where our money goes before buying anything. We must ask ourselves, was this piece of jewelry/craft/souvenir made by local artisans? Was this fruit/vegetable grown by local farmers? Buying from local artisans and producers, eating at local restaurants that buy from local producers, and staying at hotels that both employ locals and buy from locals are some simple ways of contributing to the fair trade ideal. Both at home and away, we can maintain the principles of fair trade by taking a look at what we buy. The easiest way to buy fair trade items is to look for the Fair Trade certified label. And we must remember- not only by participating in environmental projects or reducing our energy consumption are we helping the world become a better place.

Tips For Responsible Travel

**THIS IS TAKEN FROM OUR GOOD FRIENDS AT ECOTROTTERS. VISIT THEIR WEBSITE FOR MORE AWESOME INFORMATION!!


http://www.ecotrotters.com/eco-articles-Tips-for-responsible-travel/5147646368542f316364383d-article.html


What is the best way to travel in a responsible manner? First, it is important to have a clear picture of what responsible travel actually means. In general terms, what sets responsible travel apart from conventional travel is its emphasis on conservation, education, and participation in the activities of local communities. Now that we know this, we can start thinking about ways in which we can incorporate these concepts when planning our ideal vacation.

• When choosing your travel destination, try to find environmentally friendly means of getting there. Planes emit the most carbon dioxide per traveler, so try reaching your vacation spot by train or bus, to minimize the emission of greenhouse gases. It may take you a bit longer to get there, but you will be reducing your carbon footprint considerably.

• Once you reach your destination, try to avoid taxis or renting cars, and travel on foot or using public transport to get from place to place.

• Try to stay at green hotels- hotels that are committed to minimizing their impact on the environment and emphasize sustainability. Hotels with energy reduction practices, waste management, and other environmentally sound policies are always good options. Take a look at the hotels on this website for some ideas.

• If you are thinking of bringing back souvenirs, try buying local merchandise. Souvenirs manufactured ion the other side of the globe not only imply more fuel costs and unnecessary greenhouse gas emissions, but they do nothing to contribute to local the communities. Souvenirs made locally generate direct benefits for the communities you visit.

• Take your digital camera. Digital photos don’t carry developing costs and there is not need for film.

• Don’t buy packaged snacks which create unnecessary waste. Eat organic foods, which are grown implementing techniques that reduce pollution and conserve water and soil. Not only are they grown employing environmentally friendly practices, but they taste better.

These are just a few easy tips we can consider when planning our vacation. After all, our trips don’t just carry a monetary price; they carry an environmental price as well.

SHOPPING VSJ STYLE!!

our main shopping district is on the streets of calle fortaleza and san francisco. here you can find just about anything! many stores offer nothing but local art, crafts, and souvenirs. the rest offer clothing, accessories, jewelry, electronics, just about anything you could want!

on the east side of the town (towards fort el morro) is a smaller shopping street called calle cristo. on christ street you can find the first three churches of old san juan, and just about every clothing designer there is! from tommy hilfiger to ralph lauren, guess, coach and puma, we have them all (or they have been through there at one time!). towards the top of the hill is custo barcelona, pachouli, spicy caribbee, and our favorite little store mi pequeño san juan.

MI PEQUENO SAN JUAN

sells hand-painted replicas of the san juan buildings. they also carry hand-made dolls and other gifts that make great keepsakes.

107 calle cristo
787-977-1636
ducart@yahoo.com
http://www.mipequenosanjuan.com/


CUSTO BARCELONA

hot street fashion clothing. The only thing better than the clothing and best dressed employees is the way they blast blondie through the streets. i’ll be there any day!

152 calle cristo
(787) 722-1212

PACHOULLI

the perfect store for a girl to be a girl. from local perfumes to beautiful sundresses and jewelry, I find a new treasure every time I walk in! definitely worth checking out.

152 calle cristo
(787) 725-3447

SPICY CARIBEE

life does not get better than this! a full store of vibrant smells, bright colors, and beautiful hand-made items. This sore carries many culinary surprises, with many salsas and jams, food items and kitchen accessories. a must see if you have a chef or food lover on your list.

154 calle cristo
(787) 725-4690


TOUCANTIK

beautiful furniture (big and small), along with gorgeous crafts made of cloth and wood. beautiful handbags and smaller gifts.

204 calle o’donnell
205 calle cruz
(787) 725-4231

TURQUESA

this is the house of gems, rocks, minerals and art. Not only is it an amazing collection of beautiful polished rocks and stones, gemstones from topaz to quartz, and great gifts, but there is also a workshop where they make jewelry and sell all the necessities. Watch a necklace being made, or sit and join the fun!

251 calle de san francisco
(787) 721-7972

How to Eco-Travel Like A Pro!!

Some tips from personal experience.. Following these simple steps can shrink your wandering footprint! Enjoy!

Sailing cruises versus oil guzzlers on water.

I’ve gotta admit, I am the type of girl who would rather float than fly. Especially going from island to island, I feel very disconnected hopping to and from a plane, and I can’t STAND airports. Plus, what better way to pretend you’re a pirate on the open seas? And now I am hearing this is a much better and more environmentally kosher way to travel. Who knew playing Anne Bonney could be helping the earth? Right on!

But my experience, and my advice, is to take a sailboat & skip the big old motorboats. These make the imaginary parrot fly right off my shoulder. Not only does the oily rainbow that trails us bring a tear to my eye, but I am always obsessing that we will hit an animal or wondering how many fish we are burning or grinding up in that propeller thing.

Here in Puerto Rico we have first-hand proof of what motorboats can do. After a desperate drop in algae, now two of our three of our bioluminescent bays are endangered or closed due to pollution.

Maps & Guidebooks

I have the same feeling about both of these, and I have two words.. internet & GPS. Now, I am not a particular fan of either of these… or anything with a tracking device for that matter. Freaks me out, always has. But guidebooks are outdated by the time they go to press, and maps are no better.

There are many websites dedicated to helping you travel. I would suggest blogs, since these are usually not bombarded with commercials. These are often run by dedicated people who want to share information, not to direct you to who they are paid by.

I would also suggest contacting your hotel/hostel/campground. Yes, they are probably getting paid a commission for their efforts, but they will only do business with tour groups and private they trust will show up, and who will not put you in harm’s way. Also, if it is a hotel you are going through, they might offer responsibility or insurance, should you fall and break something. Worth considering.

If a guidebook is something you think you need to find fun things to do, there are many different choices (fun for teens, kids, young adults, art fans, cultural facts, etc.). Before running out and buying every one you see hot off the press, consider borrowing one from a friend or a local library. I think websites like www.paperbackswap.com is perfect for books like this.

Eco-Tours

While I am on the note of what to do on vacation, see if the place you are going has eco-tours available. These are activities that are eco-friendly and a lot of fun! Ranging from hiking, walking tours, kayaking and horseback riding, these are good ways to boost local economy while not leaving a big fat footprint in someone else’s back yard. Please remember, you are not visiting there to pollute the local land or to endanger their animals or environment. Sometime tourists get a bit carried away with motorboats, gas guzzling bus tours, and jet skis.

Wherever the travel bug takes you, be respectful to the local land. If you are going somewhere tropical or nautical, have respect for the local oceans, wildlife, beach conditions, and coral reefs. It is never a good idea to wear chemicals into a live ocean (with lots of fish and live creatures and plants) like sunscreen and insect repellant. Care2.com has alerted that there is an ingredient in sunscreen that is killing our coral reefs at an alarming rate. Try healthier non-chemical options instead, or wear a long sleeve shirt in the ocean. And please, DO NOT LITTER.

Being A Good Tourist

I promise, the phrase “Ugly American” is real. I see it daily and am pretty ashamed. I live on a beautiful island with ancient surroundings and a very strong culture. The Puerto Rican people are a wonderful, open, and very friendly group, and I know it breaks peoples’ hearts when they see the line out the door at the local Burger King, or the woman from Manhattan trying to barter the price of her latte at one of our many Starbucks. I seem to duck my head and walk faster when I see a group of girls screaming on their cell phones and stopping traffic running into the street to get into the Payless shoe store. This could very well be how people act in the States, and I just never noticed it, but I don’t think so.

Lodging

Before you travel, know your options. Would you like to rough it on your own, or is your family too used to inside living to appreciate it? There are many campgrounds and hostels that are cheap and safe, letting you spend your money on better things… like seeing more places!

If it is a hotel you are interested in, check out www.greenlodging.com to find a good environmentally responsible establishment that will let you sleep well about where you sleep!