Mexico City LUCHA LIBRE!!

After a long day at the Teotihuacan pyramids, it was time to grab a bite before my first live LUCHA LIBRE!! Understanding its place in Mexican culture, as well as being interested in it myself, I was extremely excited to see a real Mexico City wrestling match.

When we arrived, I was surprised to see that it was an actual arena for Lucha Libre, with neon signs of masked wrestlers squaring off. I was so excited to enter! After a quick cactus taco, we were in line waiting for the match to start. Unfortunately my camera was confiscated at the door, so I relinquished it (keeping the memory card in a friend’s wallet, in case something should happen).

When I entered and took my seat, the action was already fully in progress. The ring was a blur of grown men flying through the air, flipping each other around like true masters of acrobatics, round sign girls, little people dressed like gorillas running through the crowd, children running up to the stage hoping to get wrestling masks signed by their hero, and fights in the audience.

This is what heaven must look like. Vendors walking through the aisles selling more food than we have ever seen at a sporting event. I had my choice from soda, popcorn, beer, ice cream, 6-inch pizzas, ramen noodles, coffee and doughnuts, cup of pork, popcorn and fruit salads.

We watched such professionals as Los Perros Malo, the ladies' favorite Marco Corleon, the crowd's favorite Mystique, and the Blue Panther, who wore a T-shirt thanking his fans for their commitment through his 30-year career. There were wild adventures in every corner of the ring, and every aisle of the arena as well! Fights in the crowd and chairs being thrown while wrestlers did handstands on the ropes and tried to demask one another. Although there was much talk of it, we did not see anyone get their hair cut, a rather serious public showing of defeat in the ring.

Other than the antics in the ring, my favorite spectacles were the 40+ men wearing their favorite wrestler’s mask and outfit, very seriously shouting at the wrestlers and the referees. Red faces screaming and making wild, obscene hand gestures, jumping from their seats and running up and down the aisles. I made the conclusion that they had used their children/grandchildren as excuses to watch the match themselves, since the younger viewers were mostly playing hand-held gaming systems.

After the excitement died down and people started filing out towards the lobby, we fought through the crowd at the concession stand and purchased merchandise of our new favorite wrestler, the Blue Panther. Outside the arena, the streets were filled with carts and tables of masks, shirts, mugs, and merchandise of many of the major players. I browsed, took photos, and basked in the excitement of the streets while people reenacted their favorite moments, or relived the various matches for friends who showed up too late. Even though it was less than 40° Fahrenheit, there was an electricity in the air as people collected at the little taco stands and bars that lined the streets.

Finally our group was all in one place, and it was time to head back to the hotel. I felt a little sad to leave that street, wanting the excitement to last a bit longer, but most of the patrons had already headed home and the big long cars of the wrestlers had all driven away. I got my camera and left.

Zampa Cafe

San Luis Potosi # 196 Col. Roma (2 blocks from Insurgentes Sur)
5264 6488
zampacafe@hotmail.com
http://www.myspace.com/zampacafe

Our first stop in Mexico City was this cute little café called Zampa. The inside is done in orange and earth tones, set up in a balance of couches and tables. Light jazz music is playing, and it is the perfect atmosphere!


Once I was able to steal myself away from the decor and study the menu, their selection of fruit- infused teas caught my eye, and I ordered the passion fruit. I was delighted when the tea was presented with a strainer in a little glass bowl. I realized this is the type of place where I could get wrapped up in the many understated details. The menu was moderately priced, salads and sandwiches under $5.00 US specialty teas around $2.00 US.

Since it was still morning, Ed ordered their breakfast of enchiladas with refried beans, and a side of mild and flavorful green chili sauce. Not only was he delighted with his dish, but he was thrilled with portion as well. He described his dish as “easy to make a vegan version at home”. Trust me, we will try.

Even though it was morning, they were nice enough to make me one of their many salad selections. The Zampa Salad was incredible, consisting of mixed greens with avocado, cucumber, pear, chopped walnuts and puffed (dried) amaranth. Although I ordered the salad without the cheese, and the honey dressing, the taste combination was amazing, and really hit the spot. Not only did I not need dressing, but thought the two missing ingredients might cover or bulk down the underlying subtle flavors, and the light and airy texture of the amaranth.

The gentleman who helped us was wonderful in his service, details, style, and local information. Overall, a very satisfying experience.

Teotihuacán Mexico: The City of the Gods

This once very powerful city provides a look into the history, daily life, religious practices, and mentality of the Mesoamerican people. The eight square miles of amazing architecture, and formation, of these many separate buildings and temples is astounding.
Climbing the first structure, one can find not only beautiful views, but an ancient temple that is named Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the Aztec name for the Feathered Serpent that is prevalent in many Mesoamerican religions). Behind the smaller pyramid, with a flat platform on the top, is the larger building, adorned with busts of the Feathered Serpent. These breathtaking sculptures are very detailed and specific. Quetzalcoatl was believed by the Tolec people to be the creator of humanity, and was a very serious God in Aztec culture as well. So much that when the Aztecs took over the City of Teotihuacán, they did not live there, but considered it the City of the Gods.

Walking down the main street, called the Avenue of the Dead, there is a large field with yellowing long grasses, surrounded by a smaller wall, about 4 or 5 feet high. With steps built into many of the sides, it is said the inhabitants used this as a central meeting place, possibly where religious rituals like human and animal sacrificing took place, but the Spanish mistakenly named this area the Citadel. In the present, many people lay in the cool grasses soaking up the sun. Local legend is that there is a certain sun-energy present in the pyramids, and many people participate by resting in the glow of the sun.


Later down the Avenue of the Dead is another renovated structure just outside of the Temple of the Moon. The Palace of Quetzalpapalotl is possibly where the high priest lived, and the main stairs that lead to the palace are guarded with large heads of an animal, which are believed to be jaguars. Here there are many wall paintings, and further in is an outside courtyard, with fresco painted and carved walls. Columns adorned with carved images of the Quezal bird, some with obsidian eyes (a volcanic glass black opaque in color), and some bricks in the walls had images or faces.


After a quick snack at one of the little tourist stations, it is a short walk to the main temple pyramids. The first, on the right, being the 70 meters high Temple of the Sun. Although this was built after the Moon temple, it has gone through many renovations, and is much bigger and popular. Apparently, due to the Sun Temple being built 15 degrees east of true north, the temple lines up with the setting sun on August 13th, and at that time there are hundreds of people who meet on top of the Sun Temple to soak in the energy.

Straight ahead is the Moon Temple, which has three sets of stairs, and a chain-link handrail in the middle of the extremely wide staircase. This makes the climb possible for families, the elderly, and those who would be otherwise nervous. A short climb to the top awaits some of the most beautiful views these early civilizations left us. The bird’s eye view enabled tourists to see the placement of the pyramids, residential housing, and nobility palaces far and near.
Teotihuacan is a strong insight into the pre-Spanish history of the Mexican people, and holds interest, wonder and excitement every structure visited. is a trip that should not be missed.

* Teotihuacán is 50 km Northeast of D.F. (Mexico City), and is open daily from 8am to 6pm. The entrance fee is 37 pesos. There is an additional charge to use a video camera. No tripods are permitted.
*No high heels signs have been put in the palaces and certain places, so please be careful.
*Bring water, good walking/climbing shoes, a hat and sunscreen (there is very little shade) snacks, and money. Good snack shops, lots of tourist shops to browse in, and beautiful items for sale are available.
*Other than the short drive, there is a bus from the Terminal de Autobuses del Norte bus station in Mexico City. Take the bus to Los Piramides. The trip is less than an hour.

HOLY MIXQUIC!!

Although it is not know as the best place to celebrate the holiday, I decided to spend the Mexican tradition of Day of the Dead in Mixquic, Mexico, just outside of Mexico City. It seems Mixquic is put on the map because they house the cemetery and prison for the D.F. area. What perfect surroundings to be celebrating in!

Unfortunately, I did not learn about the bus that would take me straight to the town, until after I headed out. It would have been very stress-free to not have driven to the small town, but I would not have been able to stay the night to watch the candlelight service, since the bus left at 5:00 PM. So, I jumped in the rental car with a crappy map (all in Spanish) and was off.

Once I got into town and parked, it was apparent that all the streets were blocked off and the whole town was a big party. I was so happy to be in this atmosphere- with very little tourists and many sites to see. I tried to imagine the town without the massive celebrating, but it was very difficult to. Maybe they hated it as much as we hate the Festival de la Calle!

After roaming around just to get photos of the amazing Day of the Day murals in the streets, I finally found where the street fair began. At this time, I knew I was headed in the right direction of the cemetery, and that the party was just beginning.

The road leading to the town square was filled with tables selling everything that can be expected at the festival. Many vendors had mountains of sugar skulls, of every shape and size, and made out of many types of food. Some were traditional, while others were made of dark chocolate with M&M's and wore glasses and mustaches. How wonderful to see this famous tradition in the original setting!


Mixquic, and the surrounding areas, had recently finished harvesting their crops and there were many fresh fruits and vegetables for sale (all with lime and chili powder!). If that wasn't enough, there was also potato chips wrapped around a stick, cotton candy, popcorn, and different types of corn on the cob. After all that time snacking, I decided to spend some time in the little cultural centers before going any further.

One of the community centers focused on the crafts, writings, miniatures and sculptures of the local children. It was amazing to see how death was incorporated into their daily lives. Upon entering, there was the largest shrine I had ever seen. Filled with steps of food, fruits, and flowers, It looked about two stories high. Surrounding the shrine were all different types of skeletons, and a mosaic of a skeleton made out of beans-all made by the children. Further in there were masks, murals, flags and projects lining the walls, including the class project in which the children were asked "Who do you want death to come for?" and the answers ranged from bullies, "cool kids" that got the girls, and, most of all, teachers.

Finally, it was time for us to enter the cemetery. I was lucky enough to be there when the family and loved ones were finishing decorating the grave sites, and just before the sun went down. The candlelight church service started soon afterwards. It was easy to forget what the day meant when I watched the people running around with cans of water and flower petals, working hard to decorate and get things ready in time. Later, once the service started and the families huddled together at the graveside to light the candles and incense, the true meaning of the holiday shone through. Families saw me trying to hold back my tears, and invited me to sit with them, so they could share with me the funny stories and good memories of their deceased.

After watching this extremely emotional ceremony, I decided it was time to get back to el D.F. On the way out of Mixquic, in front of the prison to be exact, I was stopped by four or five men in costume carrying baseball bats and huge tree branches. They blocked the road and asked for money. On the way in I had seen a few people creating their own "toll booths" on the side of the road, and people actually stopped to give them a few pesos. I believe this is what funds the town all year, and it couldn't hurt to give a bit more to the locals. When I told them, angrily, that I only had one 10 peso coin left, then gave it to them, they said, in English, "Sorry! Thank you!" and I knew I was never in any harm. Look up Mixquic on these popular travel advice sites, and you will hear horrible warnings and advice not to go. It breaks my heart to see Americans bashing the town by saying their trip was "a disappointment" and "not worth it" , but I think this is best to keep shitty Americans out of amazing local color.