Mexico City LUCHA LIBRE!!

After a long day at the Teotihuacan pyramids, it was time to grab a bite before my first live LUCHA LIBRE!! Understanding its place in Mexican culture, as well as being interested in it myself, I was extremely excited to see a real Mexico City wrestling match.

When we arrived, I was surprised to see that it was an actual arena for Lucha Libre, with neon signs of masked wrestlers squaring off. I was so excited to enter! After a quick cactus taco, we were in line waiting for the match to start. Unfortunately my camera was confiscated at the door, so I relinquished it (keeping the memory card in a friend’s wallet, in case something should happen).

When I entered and took my seat, the action was already fully in progress. The ring was a blur of grown men flying through the air, flipping each other around like true masters of acrobatics, round sign girls, little people dressed like gorillas running through the crowd, children running up to the stage hoping to get wrestling masks signed by their hero, and fights in the audience.

This is what heaven must look like. Vendors walking through the aisles selling more food than we have ever seen at a sporting event. I had my choice from soda, popcorn, beer, ice cream, 6-inch pizzas, ramen noodles, coffee and doughnuts, cup of pork, popcorn and fruit salads.

We watched such professionals as Los Perros Malo, the ladies' favorite Marco Corleon, the crowd's favorite Mystique, and the Blue Panther, who wore a T-shirt thanking his fans for their commitment through his 30-year career. There were wild adventures in every corner of the ring, and every aisle of the arena as well! Fights in the crowd and chairs being thrown while wrestlers did handstands on the ropes and tried to demask one another. Although there was much talk of it, we did not see anyone get their hair cut, a rather serious public showing of defeat in the ring.

Other than the antics in the ring, my favorite spectacles were the 40+ men wearing their favorite wrestler’s mask and outfit, very seriously shouting at the wrestlers and the referees. Red faces screaming and making wild, obscene hand gestures, jumping from their seats and running up and down the aisles. I made the conclusion that they had used their children/grandchildren as excuses to watch the match themselves, since the younger viewers were mostly playing hand-held gaming systems.

After the excitement died down and people started filing out towards the lobby, we fought through the crowd at the concession stand and purchased merchandise of our new favorite wrestler, the Blue Panther. Outside the arena, the streets were filled with carts and tables of masks, shirts, mugs, and merchandise of many of the major players. I browsed, took photos, and basked in the excitement of the streets while people reenacted their favorite moments, or relived the various matches for friends who showed up too late. Even though it was less than 40° Fahrenheit, there was an electricity in the air as people collected at the little taco stands and bars that lined the streets.

Finally our group was all in one place, and it was time to head back to the hotel. I felt a little sad to leave that street, wanting the excitement to last a bit longer, but most of the patrons had already headed home and the big long cars of the wrestlers had all driven away. I got my camera and left.

Teotihuacán Mexico: The City of the Gods

This once very powerful city provides a look into the history, daily life, religious practices, and mentality of the Mesoamerican people. The eight square miles of amazing architecture, and formation, of these many separate buildings and temples is astounding.
Climbing the first structure, one can find not only beautiful views, but an ancient temple that is named Temple of Quetzalcoatl (the Aztec name for the Feathered Serpent that is prevalent in many Mesoamerican religions). Behind the smaller pyramid, with a flat platform on the top, is the larger building, adorned with busts of the Feathered Serpent. These breathtaking sculptures are very detailed and specific. Quetzalcoatl was believed by the Tolec people to be the creator of humanity, and was a very serious God in Aztec culture as well. So much that when the Aztecs took over the City of Teotihuacán, they did not live there, but considered it the City of the Gods.

Walking down the main street, called the Avenue of the Dead, there is a large field with yellowing long grasses, surrounded by a smaller wall, about 4 or 5 feet high. With steps built into many of the sides, it is said the inhabitants used this as a central meeting place, possibly where religious rituals like human and animal sacrificing took place, but the Spanish mistakenly named this area the Citadel. In the present, many people lay in the cool grasses soaking up the sun. Local legend is that there is a certain sun-energy present in the pyramids, and many people participate by resting in the glow of the sun.


Later down the Avenue of the Dead is another renovated structure just outside of the Temple of the Moon. The Palace of Quetzalpapalotl is possibly where the high priest lived, and the main stairs that lead to the palace are guarded with large heads of an animal, which are believed to be jaguars. Here there are many wall paintings, and further in is an outside courtyard, with fresco painted and carved walls. Columns adorned with carved images of the Quezal bird, some with obsidian eyes (a volcanic glass black opaque in color), and some bricks in the walls had images or faces.


After a quick snack at one of the little tourist stations, it is a short walk to the main temple pyramids. The first, on the right, being the 70 meters high Temple of the Sun. Although this was built after the Moon temple, it has gone through many renovations, and is much bigger and popular. Apparently, due to the Sun Temple being built 15 degrees east of true north, the temple lines up with the setting sun on August 13th, and at that time there are hundreds of people who meet on top of the Sun Temple to soak in the energy.

Straight ahead is the Moon Temple, which has three sets of stairs, and a chain-link handrail in the middle of the extremely wide staircase. This makes the climb possible for families, the elderly, and those who would be otherwise nervous. A short climb to the top awaits some of the most beautiful views these early civilizations left us. The bird’s eye view enabled tourists to see the placement of the pyramids, residential housing, and nobility palaces far and near.
Teotihuacan is a strong insight into the pre-Spanish history of the Mexican people, and holds interest, wonder and excitement every structure visited. is a trip that should not be missed.

* Teotihuacán is 50 km Northeast of D.F. (Mexico City), and is open daily from 8am to 6pm. The entrance fee is 37 pesos. There is an additional charge to use a video camera. No tripods are permitted.
*No high heels signs have been put in the palaces and certain places, so please be careful.
*Bring water, good walking/climbing shoes, a hat and sunscreen (there is very little shade) snacks, and money. Good snack shops, lots of tourist shops to browse in, and beautiful items for sale are available.
*Other than the short drive, there is a bus from the Terminal de Autobuses del Norte bus station in Mexico City. Take the bus to Los Piramides. The trip is less than an hour.

HOLY MIXQUIC!!

Although it is not know as the best place to celebrate the holiday, I decided to spend the Mexican tradition of Day of the Dead in Mixquic, Mexico, just outside of Mexico City. It seems Mixquic is put on the map because they house the cemetery and prison for the D.F. area. What perfect surroundings to be celebrating in!

Unfortunately, I did not learn about the bus that would take me straight to the town, until after I headed out. It would have been very stress-free to not have driven to the small town, but I would not have been able to stay the night to watch the candlelight service, since the bus left at 5:00 PM. So, I jumped in the rental car with a crappy map (all in Spanish) and was off.

Once I got into town and parked, it was apparent that all the streets were blocked off and the whole town was a big party. I was so happy to be in this atmosphere- with very little tourists and many sites to see. I tried to imagine the town without the massive celebrating, but it was very difficult to. Maybe they hated it as much as we hate the Festival de la Calle!

After roaming around just to get photos of the amazing Day of the Day murals in the streets, I finally found where the street fair began. At this time, I knew I was headed in the right direction of the cemetery, and that the party was just beginning.

The road leading to the town square was filled with tables selling everything that can be expected at the festival. Many vendors had mountains of sugar skulls, of every shape and size, and made out of many types of food. Some were traditional, while others were made of dark chocolate with M&M's and wore glasses and mustaches. How wonderful to see this famous tradition in the original setting!


Mixquic, and the surrounding areas, had recently finished harvesting their crops and there were many fresh fruits and vegetables for sale (all with lime and chili powder!). If that wasn't enough, there was also potato chips wrapped around a stick, cotton candy, popcorn, and different types of corn on the cob. After all that time snacking, I decided to spend some time in the little cultural centers before going any further.

One of the community centers focused on the crafts, writings, miniatures and sculptures of the local children. It was amazing to see how death was incorporated into their daily lives. Upon entering, there was the largest shrine I had ever seen. Filled with steps of food, fruits, and flowers, It looked about two stories high. Surrounding the shrine were all different types of skeletons, and a mosaic of a skeleton made out of beans-all made by the children. Further in there were masks, murals, flags and projects lining the walls, including the class project in which the children were asked "Who do you want death to come for?" and the answers ranged from bullies, "cool kids" that got the girls, and, most of all, teachers.

Finally, it was time for us to enter the cemetery. I was lucky enough to be there when the family and loved ones were finishing decorating the grave sites, and just before the sun went down. The candlelight church service started soon afterwards. It was easy to forget what the day meant when I watched the people running around with cans of water and flower petals, working hard to decorate and get things ready in time. Later, once the service started and the families huddled together at the graveside to light the candles and incense, the true meaning of the holiday shone through. Families saw me trying to hold back my tears, and invited me to sit with them, so they could share with me the funny stories and good memories of their deceased.

After watching this extremely emotional ceremony, I decided it was time to get back to el D.F. On the way out of Mixquic, in front of the prison to be exact, I was stopped by four or five men in costume carrying baseball bats and huge tree branches. They blocked the road and asked for money. On the way in I had seen a few people creating their own "toll booths" on the side of the road, and people actually stopped to give them a few pesos. I believe this is what funds the town all year, and it couldn't hurt to give a bit more to the locals. When I told them, angrily, that I only had one 10 peso coin left, then gave it to them, they said, in English, "Sorry! Thank you!" and I knew I was never in any harm. Look up Mixquic on these popular travel advice sites, and you will hear horrible warnings and advice not to go. It breaks my heart to see Americans bashing the town by saying their trip was "a disappointment" and "not worth it" , but I think this is best to keep shitty Americans out of amazing local color.

Mexico City A.K.A. El D.F.

I have to admit, I wasn't sure I would want to return home after our week in El D.F. The city is packed with history, museums, culture and amazing sites. From beautiful modern buildings to ancient Aztec pyramids, parks and street fairs to plazas and sporting events, el D. F. is the place to be!

Planning this trip for months, I had my weird little list in tow. With only six days in Mexico, and three of them being the Dia De Los Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebration outside of the city, I had to condense my expectations. If the temperature was over 40° Fahrenheit, we could have done everything. Coming from Puerto Rico, I brought all the winter wardrobe I own, which consisted of a long-sleeved T-shirt and a zip-up hoodie. Once the sun started going down, you would think there were vampires the way we ran back to the hotel!

Good friends of ours at Evolution Tattoo were kind enough to bring us around with their friend visiting from Mexican Family Tattoo in Sardinia, Italy. We went with them to a live lucha libre! It was amazing to see the drama unfold live before our eyes in the ring! We were not allowed to take our cameras inside, but we were able to snap some photos of the lucha arena and the street fair outside while we were eating at a small taco stand.


Inside we had a wonderful experience as we watched the most fake wrestling imaginable. I can now honestly say their moves were real and they used a lot of acrobatics, and the wrestlers were very impressive! El Blue Panther (not Pantera Azul for some reason), was celebrating over thirty years in the business, and made a touching speech to his fans. The whole time vendors were walking around with food items of all sorts... pork in a cup, ramen noodles, 6-inch personal pizzas, coffee and doughnuts, popcorn, ice cream, the works. I am pretty sure we could have stayed there for a week alone!

During the "fights" where wrestlers would de-mask each other, then try to cut the other's hair, the best characters to watch were definitely in the audience. The crowd was mostly under 10, or over 40. With the screaming and obscene hand gestures, it looked like the 40+ men were using their children/grandchildren as an excuse to see the matches themselves. The men stole the show running back and forth screaming and throwing things, wearing their favorite wrestler's emblem on their shirts. Meanwhile, the children would be ringside trying to sneak an autograph on the inside of their favorite mask. After watching the men, much more than the players, we didn't feel as old as we thought we might going to these types of events, and we understood crystal clear why they were serving coffee and doughnuts!

The morning after the lucha, we ran around town trying to see as much as possible. We started off at Belles Artes in the Alameda Park section of the city. This gorgeous and interesting building is used mostly for classical music concerts and dance exhibitions. As far as fine art, this museum is best known for the original murals of Diego Rivera they house. One of the murals they display is a replica Rivera created that is a smaller version of his controversial piece for Rockefeller Center, involving the likeness of Lenin. These murals are enormous and beautiful, and are joined by others from Tamayo, Siqueiros, and Orozco. Once we found our way around the murals, I located the bookstore, and spent many an hour there.

After the shopping spree, I decided to stop by the post office and send everything home. The post office building was my favorite by far, and I never thought I would be interested in buildings made of gold. The architecture and details are breathtaking, and the glass and gold elevator took us up to the top floor, where the Mexico Maritime Museum was! No more wondering why the elevator man was dressed like a Naval Officer in the middle of a post office! This museum was very interesting and the staff was very well informed about the history of wars and battles involving the Mexican Navy. I found the models of the ancient ships the most fascinating.

After breaking for a quick all-vegan lunch, we hit the street fairs like a sledgehammer! We even found a little alleyway that was lined with tables of books as far as the eye can see. It was like Christmas for this nerd. I realized earlier down the path that there were no books in english, so it was mostly a browsing trip- but I did pick up some reads for friends in Puerto Rico. In Alameda Park, many vendors were selling toys, gifts, scarfs (brilliant idea), and lots of food. After wandering around for a while, at 5 PM I was faced with a very hard decision.

As it turns out, around the time of Dia De Los Muertos, and Halloween (Jalogüin), interesting sites pop up that we would never have found out about. I stood in the crossroads. To my right was the National Museum of Art's exhibition of death, to my left the Museum of Torture and Antique Torture Devices. Wow. I found out that the art museum had a policy that after 5:25 PM, entrance is free (until closing at 6PM), so I knew where to go first.

I was impressed with the display at the Torture Museum, and amazed to see the actual replica of the devices. The exhibition was set up in a way that there was a detailed (and very well done) written piece about the device, then a photo or drawing about how it was used, and then POW! As I turned the corner, the device would actually be there. This I was not ready for! Seeing these horrible instruments made the written stories and cute little drawings a reality, instead of a twisted storybook on the wall. I was also horrified to see how many of the instruments were made specifically to torture women. I guess between the Spanish Inquisition and the Salem Witch Hunts, they needed as much help as possible.

Afterwards, we shot over to the exhibition of death, which I was not sure I could stomach. The arrangement of art was fantastic, and there was art from many different time periods. Mostly political drawings from the early 1900's, the illustrations were beautiful and very powerful. I was in awe of the smaller room that displayed all the oil paintings of dead children (paintings of the children in the coffins). That was powerful enough to make me sit for a while.

By the time we got to the Zócalo area of the city, it was night, and we were only able to see a small part of the plaza. This was fine with me, since I did not want to be in the area where they have bullfighting every weekend anyway. The only site on my list was to see the largest Catholic cathedral in all of Latin America. The huge plaza is beautiful, and I am glad we saw it! The cathedral was all but closed, and the smaller area that was open was having a public mass. We tried to take as many photos (museum style) as possible, but at night with no flash, that was not happening. The only one that came out was of the Jesus on the cross, which was probably the most interesting site there! I tried to ask the church security why they would have an all black (not African, pure BLACK) Jesus on a black cross. No one knew why.

Once we exited the church, the violently cold air hit us likes bricks flying in the night, and we realized it was time to hit the hotel.