CATEDRAL DE SAN JUAN, San Juan Puerto Rico

151-153 Calle Cristo
San Juan 00902 Puerto Rico
+1 787 722 0861
LuisNieves@catedralsanjuan.com
http://www.catedralsanjuan.com
Open Hours
8:30a-4p M-F, closed during services at 12:15p weekdays


I am NOT a church-going Christian… more of a vegan anarchist! But one should always appreciate art, and there are many times when religion and art go hand in hand, like … everywhere in Latin America. Especially here in Puerto Rico where religion and government go hand in hand. So do religion and birth rate, religion and music, religion and history, and the list goes on. So if I couldn't beat 'em, might as well take some photos, see some art & learn some history! Plus, I am a pretty big fan of the gory and bloody symbols of the Catholic religion!


I heart effigies! This one being St. Pius.

This is one of the many local churches in my town, but this is the biggest, and most historical of them all. I have bought hand-made rosaries for various family members made out of indigenous dried seeds here, and beads, and not once was I ever able to get them blessed by a Padre, who was always off the premises, so I figured the coast was clear for me to go in and snap some shots. The women who run the church are very friendly and allow photography almost any time they doors are open. They have people praying during times that are not mass, but the church stays open to tourist groups and individuals anyway. I had a great feeling that I was not getting into anyone's way, and was not getting crappy looks like some church members like to throw. This was a much healthier environment.

The San Juan Cathedral, is located on Calle del Santo Cristo (yes… the street of Christ), and was built in the 1520's (literally, the estate was picked out in 1521, the roof was put on in 1529) by Monsignor Tame Alonso, first bishop of the island. Since then it has been renovated a number of times, and has survived attacks of pirates, the English, the Dutch and PR's own history of crappy politicians, but it still stands.


Are people really this bored in hell?

The convent across the street is as widely-known as the church. Constructed in 1646, it housed the nuns associated with the church, no matter what sect they were from, and in back of their building is a beautiful staircase called the Escalinata De Las Monjas, which was the route the nuns would take to the church. In 1903 the convent was closed, and (according to local legend) became an apartment complex. After a while, in 1959, the structure was turned into the now world renowned El Convento Hotel. Not only is the building still in tact and breathtaking, but with less than 60 rooms, is extremely exclusive as well. Now it is very common to have wedding ceremonies in the cathedral, then the reception in the convent. Weird.


As I understand in history, traditionally wandering people did not make a place a town until they buried their own there. In this case rumor is that San Juan was a military base, not a residence, until there was a church. Once they built one, then it was a hoppin' town that would later be known for it's whorehouses. Go figure.

This cathedral is definitely beautiful, majestic & worth a look. In no case is it as eerie as the half-melted wax gory Catholic statues of Latin America, but since it houses the remains of the famous fountain-seeker Ponce de Leon, well… that makes it a must-see.

** Since there was no one there to answer my questions about the history of the church, I have an appointment next week. I will try to get as much information as possible! Stay tuned!
**For more information about the El Convento hotel, or their history, please reference www.elconvento.com

Campamento Guavate Cayey, Puerto Rico

My first visit to the site of the Campamento Guavate was a surprise and left me stunned with a smile for the rest of the day, and three rolls of film to develop. There is so little information about this abandoned correctional facility that I figured I had better do some research and come back.



This structure was abandoned in the early 00's, and is said to have been a correctional facility for juveniles- which would explain a lot of the graffiti saying "Let our children go", etc. Other than being a spot for locals to test out new guns, and for teams to play paintball, it looked like the structure had been left abandoned, and untouched, for many years.



This series of structures (a ring of little buildings, some with bridges connecting) is located off the main road, and set rather deeply in the lush rainforest foliage. Bringing our car past the violently smashed front gate (looks like it was locked at one point and opened when meeting the front of a large truck), we hid the car behind one of the first main buildings so as not to attract attention from the police, passer-bys and locals. Before getting started on our journey, I gave some of the local dogs food so they would not follow us.


one of the first main rooms-check out the view!

Once inside, it was great to see funny things like the remnants of the naked women magazine clippings that were up still up in the lockers, and playing cards still all over the floor in some of the rooms. The beds, showers, kitchen, lockers, watchtower and some of the windows were all pretty much still in tact. Rusted and broken, but still present. We even found a "work card" of one of the kids, explaining he is to report to work in the kitchen.


area for toilets



After surveying the land, I saw very little security measures. I am sure there were guards, probably with big guns, but other than the watchtowers with their spiral staircases, I saw little else. The regular chain-linked fence, topped with razor wire, ran along the border of the main road, but I saw no other barrier between the site and the rainforest.

All in all, a fair example of what to expect of an abandoned correctional facility in the Caribbean. Everything that could rust did, the rest wasn't going anywhere. I recently have heard of another prison in Bayamon that is not only closed and abandoned, but apparently is going to be reconstructed and opened soon. I'll try to make it there before they do! stay tuned!

*** Photos are larger files and may take a moment to load!

The Craziness of LA CALLE!!

I have to tell you, if I did not live in the specific area of the Festival De La Calle in Viejo San Juan for the last three years, I would have a very different opinion of the festival. But I do, and I have, and although it is a huge pain in the ass for us locals, it has some amazing charms as well.

Every town in Puerto Rico has a patron saint, to which that town holds a festival once a year. San Juan holds a festival to their San Juan El Bautista (St. John the Baptist), and people celebrate with a public baptism of drunk people throwing themselves into the ocean backwards at midnight. Old San Juan celebrates our favorite martyr, St. Sebastian, by popping open a can of Medalla. Since Calle San Sebastian is our street of bars, we celebrate our saint by allowing thousands to drink in the streets. With this, the Feast of San Sebastian is also called the Fiesta De La Calle, or the"Party of the Street" .

Part of this festival's history is the Parade Cabezudos, which is a great parade, encompassing everyone on the street with very catchy music. I would almost call it addictive. Today I was in my home when I heard the parade go by, and I couldn't help but grab my camera & head out to join the celebration. It is almost impossible not to! With the parade comes the very famous Comparsa Pleneros Del Pueblo, or people wearing masks of huge heads of common people. These, along with the vejigantes of Ponce, are the star attractions of the parade, and the festival. Although no one could answer to what the history of these masks are, including the children in the masks and their parents, I will just call it one of our dearly held traditions, and hopefully edit this part out when I can call the Cultural Department once the festival is over and they open again.
Other than the big headed people, the festival of St. Sebastian is also world-renowned for the artistic fair that is held in the area of the Totem. Famous musicians and artists come together to preform and exhibit their talents and join the huge arts and crafts fair. Last year the main musical attraction was Ricky Martin, and featured the art of Ada Rosa Rivera, Elida Rodríguez, Javier Alzérreca Frambes, Oslvado de Jesus Cruz, Roberto Matos, and Sixto Cotto. This year's line up is much more local, involving the Orchestra of the North to South Julito Alvarado, and the group Así Somos.

Enjoy, and maybe I will catch you out on the street!

SHOPPING VSJ STYLE!!

our main shopping district is on the streets of calle fortaleza and san francisco. here you can find just about anything! many stores offer nothing but local art, crafts, and souvenirs. the rest offer clothing, accessories, jewelry, electronics, just about anything you could want!

on the east side of the town (towards fort el morro) is a smaller shopping street called calle cristo. on christ street you can find the first three churches of old san juan, and just about every clothing designer there is! from tommy hilfiger to ralph lauren, guess, coach and puma, we have them all (or they have been through there at one time!). towards the top of the hill is custo barcelona, pachouli, spicy caribbee, and our favorite little store mi pequeño san juan.

MI PEQUENO SAN JUAN

sells hand-painted replicas of the san juan buildings. they also carry hand-made dolls and other gifts that make great keepsakes.

107 calle cristo
787-977-1636
ducart@yahoo.com
http://www.mipequenosanjuan.com/


CUSTO BARCELONA

hot street fashion clothing. The only thing better than the clothing and best dressed employees is the way they blast blondie through the streets. i’ll be there any day!

152 calle cristo
(787) 722-1212

PACHOULLI

the perfect store for a girl to be a girl. from local perfumes to beautiful sundresses and jewelry, I find a new treasure every time I walk in! definitely worth checking out.

152 calle cristo
(787) 725-3447

SPICY CARIBEE

life does not get better than this! a full store of vibrant smells, bright colors, and beautiful hand-made items. This sore carries many culinary surprises, with many salsas and jams, food items and kitchen accessories. a must see if you have a chef or food lover on your list.

154 calle cristo
(787) 725-4690


TOUCANTIK

beautiful furniture (big and small), along with gorgeous crafts made of cloth and wood. beautiful handbags and smaller gifts.

204 calle o’donnell
205 calle cruz
(787) 725-4231

TURQUESA

this is the house of gems, rocks, minerals and art. Not only is it an amazing collection of beautiful polished rocks and stones, gemstones from topaz to quartz, and great gifts, but there is also a workshop where they make jewelry and sell all the necessities. Watch a necklace being made, or sit and join the fun!

251 calle de san francisco
(787) 721-7972

HELPFUL HINTS TO VIEJO SAN JUAN, PR

There is much to say about one of the most beautiful and historical cities in this hemisphere. Many countries have come and gone trying to claim this island as their own. There are statues and plaques dedicated to the triumphs over the British and the Dutch around the famous Fort El Morro, and many rumors and legends about the other countries bound for the glory of Christopher Columbus’ own paradise.

Although there are many cities of great historical value and beauty in Puerto Rico, Old San Juan is ranked as one of the top. The antiqued cobblestone streets, the Spanish-style buildings, and the local flavor, make this a trip of a lifetime.

TIPS FOR TRAVEL

-Numero uno, and que importante – the cops of Puerto Rico (for the most part, definitely in the cities) DRIVE WITH THEIR LIGHTS FLASHING. If you see the blue cherries behind you, do not slam on the brakes, pull over to the side of the road, or stop walking to throw yourself down onto the sidewalk.
This is for YOUR BENEFIT. You know how the police in the states say they are there to “protect and serve”? here they actually MEAN THAT. The cherries are a-blazin’ purposely so you can immediately find a police officer if you feel danger. It is not meant to freak you out, it is to make you feel safer. And once you are used to it … it does.


-Puerto Ricans point using their lips. There are many stories of why this happens, but no matter. When a native is in a position where they want to help you and do not speak your language, they tend to use many different facial and bodily gestures to help bridge the communication gap. If someone is pursing their lips at you repeatedly, they are probably NOT TRYING TO SEND YOU KISSES OR PICK A FIGHT. They are probably trying to get you to look at something, or get your attention.

-I love this town, and have lived here for four years now, and I can tell you from experience, that people can get downright loud. No joke. You will hear people yell, kinda a LOT. But since I have been here, never have I seen loud yelling turn into a fight or an altercation. The Puerto Rican people are genuinely good-hearted, and do not pick fights out in the open very often. If you hear someone yelling, it is probably someone calling up to the second floor of their building, calling across the street to their friends, or two people having a passionate discussion.

- Local flavor. Yep, we got it- every city does. The homeless, the “crazies” in the streets or sleeping on benches. Not a lot, but a few. This is a very small town, and everyone knows each other, even the junkies. It is up to you if you want to give them money, but it is not OK to hurt these people, and I have never seen any one of them hurt anyone else.

-Fashing pictures. The locals are not really up to be photographed. Really. I know this from experience. There is nothing worse than waking up in the morning, running outside to let the dog pee, or to put the clothes in the dryer next door, just to look up and see a stranger with a video camera in your face. Not cool. In fact, the only fight we ever did see here involved a man smashing a tourist’s camera, and then punching him in the face. Very extreme behavior, but… you get the drift.



HELPFUL INFO

- The area code for the metropolitan area of San Juan is 787. The more remote parts of Puerto Rico are 939, as well as some cell phones.

- During half the year, Puerto Rico is on Eastern Standard Time. What does this mean? It means that we don’t go for that time change stuff. When the East Coast “springs ahead” they join us on our time for 6 months. And when they “fall back”, they do just that (leaving us an hour ahead).

- The currency is the american dollar, and there is no exchange rate difference. The tip rate is 15%, and we do not barter as much as other islands. No, we do not expect bartering, or "like it". Especially at a Starbucks or a Burger King. It's downright embarrassing. You wouldn't haggle over the price of your latte at home, please do not do it here.

- Although it may not look like it sometimes, we DO drive on the same side of the road as in the States. All of our signs are in Spanish, but the format is the same (doesn't really matter what a huge red octagon on a pole SAYS, right?). Our gas is in litres, which is 1/4 a gallon. when it says gas is 50 cents, they do not mean per gallon. Maybe one day… we can all dream.

- Here in PR, the USPS is King. We have a post office located near the pool hall, and mailboxes scattered all over the city. We even had some of the R2D2 ones! There are Fed Ex and UPS stores here as well.

- For information dial 411, emergencies 911.


HELPFUL INFO FOR VEGANS

-Really, stay away from the beans here in PR. 98% of the time, the beans are cooked with pork or lard. There are many ways to make beans with squash, or other thickening agents, but it is not likely you will find a place who does. In the following posts, I will star (*) the places that i know have vegan options, or do not use any meat in their beans.

-Ask your restaurant for a vegetarian special, or what vegetarian dishes they have available. You would be surprised. We are finding more and more changes to the local menus, and are proud to say we are part of the cause. In most places they are starting to understand "vegetarian beans" does NOT mean "pick the pork out with your fingers before serving". We're learning. Slowly.

-Was this fried in vegetable oil? Why, yes! So was the fish, the chicken and the cheese sticks! Be warned.

- A few places have open-glass holding spaces for fresh fish and eel. It is not pretty.

-A lot of our local crafts are made with leather. Before purchasing, look over the product carefully.

-Yes, we have an alarmingly high street cat population. We are working on this. These cats, for the most part, are completely being taken care of. I have never seen one that is sick, other than old age, and they are given their shots, neutered, and fed regularly. For more info, go to SAVE A GATO

RINCON, PUERTO RICO!

ahh.. my kingdom for a little shack on the beach in beautiful Rincon, Puerto Rico. This little town is actually a world-famous surfing spot! I know it as the best place to catch a glimpse of the humpback whales when they blow their way through town on their way down south, but the locals know there is much more to this lovely part of the island than that! For lots of excitement, whether it be hitting the waves, bars, or just snorkeling around, Rincon has it.

As per usual we headed straight to my favorite little veggie joint, Natural High, on rt. 115. This cute little cafe has some of the most amazing vegetarian dishes in Puerto Rico, and has even won an award from Lonely Planet to prove it! After ordering my very favorite cold sesame noodles and japanese salad, I decided I wasn't going to just hit the breathtaking beach as usual. I mean, I couldn't RESIST sticking my foot in for a while, but I figured there must be more than fun in the sun that makes up Rincon. So, after munching down the most satisfying of meals, we were off to find adventure. or at least more organic food. Whichever.

http://www.naturalhighcafe.com
http://www.naturalhighcafe.com/menu.pdf

This time around, although we did enjoy the beach sports and beautiful scenery, we stopped on the way at the DR. ANN WIGMORE INSTITUTE!! For those who have never heard, this amazing Dra. was known for her methods of using wheatgrass and living foods to detoxify the human body. Being the author of many books, she started an institute in PR that involves a very strict diet of raw foods, and her famous "energy soup". The institute also offers classes on yoga, skin care and self-esteem.

This was a whole lot of fun for me because I was given a tour of their organic vegetable gardens and spoke for a long time with the woman who oversees their on-site gardens. Almost all of the veggies and fruits used for the programs are produced in their on or off site gardens.

Yhere are just some veggies you don't see in island life, and they grow 'em all! From kale to swiss chard, their green leafies are amazing. Also their roots, fruits, herbs and sprouts blew my mind! It was wonderful to talk to their staff and compare notes. Not only is this an amazing detox center, but if you have any questions on organic or hydroponic gardening, pesticide control, or composting in the Caribbean, these are the experts!

For more information on the ann wigmore institute, please go to http://www.annwigmore.org



After that exciting adventure (it is always great to meet another organic gardener), we hit the beach! Our friends at Tiano Divers rented us some snorkels, and we headed to Steps Beach (Playa Escalaras). This is where Ed had seen a baby Barracuda, and I was on a warpath to see one myself! Well, it was a bit windy, so we didn't get to see everything we wanted to, but it was a great time at a beautiful beach, nonetheless!