CATEDRAL DE SAN JUAN, San Juan Puerto Rico

151-153 Calle Cristo
San Juan 00902 Puerto Rico
+1 787 722 0861
LuisNieves@catedralsanjuan.com
http://www.catedralsanjuan.com
Open Hours
8:30a-4p M-F, closed during services at 12:15p weekdays


I am NOT a church-going Christian… more of a vegan anarchist! But one should always appreciate art, and there are many times when religion and art go hand in hand, like … everywhere in Latin America. Especially here in Puerto Rico where religion and government go hand in hand. So do religion and birth rate, religion and music, religion and history, and the list goes on. So if I couldn't beat 'em, might as well take some photos, see some art & learn some history! Plus, I am a pretty big fan of the gory and bloody symbols of the Catholic religion!


I heart effigies! This one being St. Pius.

This is one of the many local churches in my town, but this is the biggest, and most historical of them all. I have bought hand-made rosaries for various family members made out of indigenous dried seeds here, and beads, and not once was I ever able to get them blessed by a Padre, who was always off the premises, so I figured the coast was clear for me to go in and snap some shots. The women who run the church are very friendly and allow photography almost any time they doors are open. They have people praying during times that are not mass, but the church stays open to tourist groups and individuals anyway. I had a great feeling that I was not getting into anyone's way, and was not getting crappy looks like some church members like to throw. This was a much healthier environment.

The San Juan Cathedral, is located on Calle del Santo Cristo (yes… the street of Christ), and was built in the 1520's (literally, the estate was picked out in 1521, the roof was put on in 1529) by Monsignor Tame Alonso, first bishop of the island. Since then it has been renovated a number of times, and has survived attacks of pirates, the English, the Dutch and PR's own history of crappy politicians, but it still stands.


Are people really this bored in hell?

The convent across the street is as widely-known as the church. Constructed in 1646, it housed the nuns associated with the church, no matter what sect they were from, and in back of their building is a beautiful staircase called the Escalinata De Las Monjas, which was the route the nuns would take to the church. In 1903 the convent was closed, and (according to local legend) became an apartment complex. After a while, in 1959, the structure was turned into the now world renowned El Convento Hotel. Not only is the building still in tact and breathtaking, but with less than 60 rooms, is extremely exclusive as well. Now it is very common to have wedding ceremonies in the cathedral, then the reception in the convent. Weird.


As I understand in history, traditionally wandering people did not make a place a town until they buried their own there. In this case rumor is that San Juan was a military base, not a residence, until there was a church. Once they built one, then it was a hoppin' town that would later be known for it's whorehouses. Go figure.

This cathedral is definitely beautiful, majestic & worth a look. In no case is it as eerie as the half-melted wax gory Catholic statues of Latin America, but since it houses the remains of the famous fountain-seeker Ponce de Leon, well… that makes it a must-see.

** Since there was no one there to answer my questions about the history of the church, I have an appointment next week. I will try to get as much information as possible! Stay tuned!
**For more information about the El Convento hotel, or their history, please reference www.elconvento.com

The Craziness of LA CALLE!!

I have to tell you, if I did not live in the specific area of the Festival De La Calle in Viejo San Juan for the last three years, I would have a very different opinion of the festival. But I do, and I have, and although it is a huge pain in the ass for us locals, it has some amazing charms as well.

Every town in Puerto Rico has a patron saint, to which that town holds a festival once a year. San Juan holds a festival to their San Juan El Bautista (St. John the Baptist), and people celebrate with a public baptism of drunk people throwing themselves into the ocean backwards at midnight. Old San Juan celebrates our favorite martyr, St. Sebastian, by popping open a can of Medalla. Since Calle San Sebastian is our street of bars, we celebrate our saint by allowing thousands to drink in the streets. With this, the Feast of San Sebastian is also called the Fiesta De La Calle, or the"Party of the Street" .

Part of this festival's history is the Parade Cabezudos, which is a great parade, encompassing everyone on the street with very catchy music. I would almost call it addictive. Today I was in my home when I heard the parade go by, and I couldn't help but grab my camera & head out to join the celebration. It is almost impossible not to! With the parade comes the very famous Comparsa Pleneros Del Pueblo, or people wearing masks of huge heads of common people. These, along with the vejigantes of Ponce, are the star attractions of the parade, and the festival. Although no one could answer to what the history of these masks are, including the children in the masks and their parents, I will just call it one of our dearly held traditions, and hopefully edit this part out when I can call the Cultural Department once the festival is over and they open again.
Other than the big headed people, the festival of St. Sebastian is also world-renowned for the artistic fair that is held in the area of the Totem. Famous musicians and artists come together to preform and exhibit their talents and join the huge arts and crafts fair. Last year the main musical attraction was Ricky Martin, and featured the art of Ada Rosa Rivera, Elida Rodríguez, Javier Alzérreca Frambes, Oslvado de Jesus Cruz, Roberto Matos, and Sixto Cotto. This year's line up is much more local, involving the Orchestra of the North to South Julito Alvarado, and the group Así Somos.

Enjoy, and maybe I will catch you out on the street!

HELPFUL HINTS TO VIEJO SAN JUAN, PR

There is much to say about one of the most beautiful and historical cities in this hemisphere. Many countries have come and gone trying to claim this island as their own. There are statues and plaques dedicated to the triumphs over the British and the Dutch around the famous Fort El Morro, and many rumors and legends about the other countries bound for the glory of Christopher Columbus’ own paradise.

Although there are many cities of great historical value and beauty in Puerto Rico, Old San Juan is ranked as one of the top. The antiqued cobblestone streets, the Spanish-style buildings, and the local flavor, make this a trip of a lifetime.

TIPS FOR TRAVEL

-Numero uno, and que importante – the cops of Puerto Rico (for the most part, definitely in the cities) DRIVE WITH THEIR LIGHTS FLASHING. If you see the blue cherries behind you, do not slam on the brakes, pull over to the side of the road, or stop walking to throw yourself down onto the sidewalk.
This is for YOUR BENEFIT. You know how the police in the states say they are there to “protect and serve”? here they actually MEAN THAT. The cherries are a-blazin’ purposely so you can immediately find a police officer if you feel danger. It is not meant to freak you out, it is to make you feel safer. And once you are used to it … it does.


-Puerto Ricans point using their lips. There are many stories of why this happens, but no matter. When a native is in a position where they want to help you and do not speak your language, they tend to use many different facial and bodily gestures to help bridge the communication gap. If someone is pursing their lips at you repeatedly, they are probably NOT TRYING TO SEND YOU KISSES OR PICK A FIGHT. They are probably trying to get you to look at something, or get your attention.

-I love this town, and have lived here for four years now, and I can tell you from experience, that people can get downright loud. No joke. You will hear people yell, kinda a LOT. But since I have been here, never have I seen loud yelling turn into a fight or an altercation. The Puerto Rican people are genuinely good-hearted, and do not pick fights out in the open very often. If you hear someone yelling, it is probably someone calling up to the second floor of their building, calling across the street to their friends, or two people having a passionate discussion.

- Local flavor. Yep, we got it- every city does. The homeless, the “crazies” in the streets or sleeping on benches. Not a lot, but a few. This is a very small town, and everyone knows each other, even the junkies. It is up to you if you want to give them money, but it is not OK to hurt these people, and I have never seen any one of them hurt anyone else.

-Fashing pictures. The locals are not really up to be photographed. Really. I know this from experience. There is nothing worse than waking up in the morning, running outside to let the dog pee, or to put the clothes in the dryer next door, just to look up and see a stranger with a video camera in your face. Not cool. In fact, the only fight we ever did see here involved a man smashing a tourist’s camera, and then punching him in the face. Very extreme behavior, but… you get the drift.



HELPFUL INFO

- The area code for the metropolitan area of San Juan is 787. The more remote parts of Puerto Rico are 939, as well as some cell phones.

- During half the year, Puerto Rico is on Eastern Standard Time. What does this mean? It means that we don’t go for that time change stuff. When the East Coast “springs ahead” they join us on our time for 6 months. And when they “fall back”, they do just that (leaving us an hour ahead).

- The currency is the american dollar, and there is no exchange rate difference. The tip rate is 15%, and we do not barter as much as other islands. No, we do not expect bartering, or "like it". Especially at a Starbucks or a Burger King. It's downright embarrassing. You wouldn't haggle over the price of your latte at home, please do not do it here.

- Although it may not look like it sometimes, we DO drive on the same side of the road as in the States. All of our signs are in Spanish, but the format is the same (doesn't really matter what a huge red octagon on a pole SAYS, right?). Our gas is in litres, which is 1/4 a gallon. when it says gas is 50 cents, they do not mean per gallon. Maybe one day… we can all dream.

- Here in PR, the USPS is King. We have a post office located near the pool hall, and mailboxes scattered all over the city. We even had some of the R2D2 ones! There are Fed Ex and UPS stores here as well.

- For information dial 411, emergencies 911.


HELPFUL INFO FOR VEGANS

-Really, stay away from the beans here in PR. 98% of the time, the beans are cooked with pork or lard. There are many ways to make beans with squash, or other thickening agents, but it is not likely you will find a place who does. In the following posts, I will star (*) the places that i know have vegan options, or do not use any meat in their beans.

-Ask your restaurant for a vegetarian special, or what vegetarian dishes they have available. You would be surprised. We are finding more and more changes to the local menus, and are proud to say we are part of the cause. In most places they are starting to understand "vegetarian beans" does NOT mean "pick the pork out with your fingers before serving". We're learning. Slowly.

-Was this fried in vegetable oil? Why, yes! So was the fish, the chicken and the cheese sticks! Be warned.

- A few places have open-glass holding spaces for fresh fish and eel. It is not pretty.

-A lot of our local crafts are made with leather. Before purchasing, look over the product carefully.

-Yes, we have an alarmingly high street cat population. We are working on this. These cats, for the most part, are completely being taken care of. I have never seen one that is sick, other than old age, and they are given their shots, neutered, and fed regularly. For more info, go to SAVE A GATO